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Fruit Frapées
Line a mold with vanilla ice-cream, fill the center with fresh berries, or fruit cut in slices, cover with ice-cream, cover closely, and set in freezer for half an hour, with salt and ice well packed around it. The fruit must be chilled, but not frozen. Strawberries and ripe peaches are delicious thus prepared. -Mrs. J. C. P., Stockbridge,
This is a bombe: a mold lined with ice cream, filled with fruit, sealed and hardened. The original assumes a hand-cranked freezer packed with ice and rock salt, which is the only part that needs translating.
- "Set in freezer" means the ice tubIn the usage of this period the freezer is the wooden bucket with its metal can, and the mold is buried in a mixture of crushed ice and rock salt (commonly around three parts ice to one part salt by volume). A modern freezer at 0F does the same work; give the sealed mold an hour or two rather than the half hour the salt-and-ice pack would need.
- Line the mold while the cream is stiff, not softIce cream at scooping temperature slumps and the lining thins at the top. Work with cream just firm enough to spread, press it up the walls with the back of a chilled spoon to an even half inch, then refreeze the shell for 20 minutes before filling.
- Chilled but not frozenThis is the hinge of the recipe. Whole strawberries and peach slices freeze into hard, icy lumps that shatter the slice; tossing the fruit with a spoonful or two of sugar and letting it stand 15 minutes draws out juice and keeps the pieces yielding when cut.
- Choice of moldA metal bombe mold, charlotte tin or 1-quart loaf pan all work. Metal releases far better than glass or ceramic; line it with plastic wrap for a clean lift if it has no hinge.
- "Cover closely"Under the ice-and-salt method this kept brine out of the dessert. In a modern freezer the same instruction guards against ice crystals and absorbed odors, so press wrap directly onto the surface and add a lid or foil.
- UnmoldingDip the mold in warm water for 10 to 15 seconds, invert onto a chilled plate, and return the whole thing to the freezer for 10 minutes before slicing with a hot, dry knife.
- YieldNot given. A 1-quart mold takes roughly a pint of ice cream for the shell and lid plus about 2 cups of prepared fruit, and serves four to six in wedges.