The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 1212

Pickerel, Tomato Andalouse Sauce

Brocheton, Sauce Tomate Andalouse

Score both sides of the fillets taken from the fish; put them in a tureen with salt, pepper, chopped up onions, parsley, oil, and vinegar; one hour later drain them from their marinade, roll them in flour, and fry to a fine color, and when firm dress with a tomato Andalouse sauce (No. 550) served separately.

For the Modern Kitchen

A short entry from Ranhofer that assumes you have the rest of The Epicurean open beside you. Two things carry the dish: a proper vinegar-and-oil marinade, and frying hot enough that the flour coating sets before the thin fillets overcook.

A Little History

Charles Ranhofer wrote The Epicurean (1894) out of some thirty years running the kitchen at Delmonico's in New York, and the book is organised like a professional reference: numbered recipes, constant cross-references to sauces and garnishes elsewhere in the volume, and almost no explanation for the beginner. This entry sits in a long run of freshwater fish — eels, pike, carp, sturgeon — grouped together in the fish chapters. The "Andalouse" label was a nineteenth-century French kitchen convention marking the presence of tomato and sweet pepper, the two ingredients European cooks associated with southern Spain; the sauce has no documented Andalusian origin and the name is best read as menu geography.