The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 1603

Mutton Cutlets with Cucumbers

Cotelettes de Mouton aux Concombres

Prepare and cook the cutlets the same as with braised lettuce (No. 1601); when done dress them crown-shaped, and fill the inside of the circle with cucumbers cut the shape of a clove of garlic, cooked in stock (No. 194a), drained, and mingled with cream bechamel sauce (No. 411).

For the Modern Kitchen

Ranhofer writes in shorthand: this entry is really an assembly instruction resting on three other numbered recipes. Here is what you need to fill in to cook it.

A Little History

The Epicurean (1894) is Charles Ranhofer's record of thirty-odd years as chef at Delmonico's in New York, and its structure explains the terseness of entries like this one: the mutton section runs through dozens of variations on a single sautéed or broiled cutlet, each distinguished only by its garnish, with the base method stated once and referenced thereafter. Cooked cucumber, unfamiliar to many cooks now, was standard in French kitchens of the period — turned, stewed in stock or glazed in butter, and treated much as one would treat a summer squash. The crown arrangement is a built composition, meant to be admired at the table before it is broken up and served.