A Little HistoryCharles Ranhofer ran the kitchens at Delmonico's in New York for over thirty years, and The Epicurean (1894) is essentially the restaurant's working repertoire set down in print, which is why entries like this one are so clipped: they were written for cooks who already knew the house preparations and needed only the variation. The book carries a long run of squab cutlet recipes in sequence — à la Périgueux, à la jardinière, à la Signora — each a different sauce over the same boned breast, a demonstration of range that was the point of a grand carte. Pigeon was ordinary American food well into the nineteenth century, but by Ranhofer's day the wild passenger pigeon was collapsing toward extinction and restaurant squab meant farmed birds from domestic pigeon lofts. The "Provençale" label, then as now, is a shorthand for garlic, olive oil and tomato rather than any claim of regional authenticity; French kitchens of the period used such geographical tags as a naming system for sauce variations.