A Little HistoryCharles Ranhofer, chef at Delmonico's in New York, published The Epicurean in 1894 as an exhaustive catalogue of the French repertoire as it was practised in an American luxury restaurant, and its soup chapter runs to dozens of consommés that differ only in garnish. That is the logic of classical garnish nomenclature: the broth is the same clear chicken consommé, and the name records what floats in it. Titles like à l'Impératrice belong to the nineteenth-century habit of dedicating dishes to royalty, and the epithet is generally traced to Eugénie, empress consort of Napoleon III, whose name attaches to a long list of Second Empire preparations; the attribution is conventional rather than documented in any single kitchen record. The decorated mousseline quenelle, unmolded whole and set in the cup with rice and turned vegetables, was a display of a brigade's precision as much as of flavour.