A Little HistoryThis comes from Charles Ranhofer's The Epicurean (1894), the enormous compendium of the food he served as chef at Delmonico's in New York, and it shows the cold buffet at its most codified: a dish is not so much cooked as constructed, numbered, and cross-referenced to three other numbered preparations. The word galantine is generally traced to Old French galatine, a jellied sauce or dish, though the derivation is not settled; the technique it names is an old one -- bone a bird, stuff it back into its own skin, poach, press, and serve cold in its own set jelly. Ranhofer's habit of attaching personal names to variants (Elisabeth here, Lorenzo on the following page) is usually linked to the practice of dedicating dishes to patrons and guests of honor, though in most cases the specific person behind the name is not recorded. Partridge on a cold-service platter also marks the season and the clientele: game birds were a fall and winter luxury, and a galantine, which could be made a day ahead and sliced to order, was exactly what a large private dinner needed.