The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 2548

"pain" of Partridges a la Montgomery

Pain de Perdreaux a la Montgomery

Cut three raw partridges in pieces as for a sauted chicken, fry with chopped fat pork, truffles, mushrooms, fine herbs, salt, aromatics and spices; when well done, put aside to cool, remove the meat and divide in half-inch squares, then pound and add nine egg-yolk, half a pound of foies-gras, and three-quarters of a pound of flour and milk panada (No. 121); when a smooth pulp is obtained press it through a sieve and mingle in six ounces of salted, unsmoked red beef tongue, nine ounces of truffles, and fifteen ounces of udder, all to be cut into three-sixteenths inch dice. Fill a plain oval dome-shaped mold six inches long by four inches wide with the preparation; cover with fat pork, and then set it in a sautoir with a little water and cook in a slack oven for three hours; turn it out after it is thoroughly cold, remove the fat pork, smooth the surfaces and set it in a larger mold decorated with truffles, coated with a light coat of white jelly (No. 103), and another one of white chaudfroid (No. 596); finish filling the mold with jelly, and when exceedingly cold invert it on a bread support two inches high covered with lobster butter (No. 580); surround with chopped jelly, and garnish around the support with jelly croutons and cases of thrushes prepared as follows: Bone some thrushes, keeping one leg on each that must not be be boned; stuff the birds with game forcemeat (No. 91), season with salt, pepper, mushrooms, parsley and truffles, all to be finely chopped. Then also cook some whole truffles, rounded to an inch in diameter, and when both of these are cold glaze the birds over with brown chaudfroid (No. 594), and decorate the leg with a favor frill (No. 10); lay the thrushes in oval cases, and the truffles in small round ones; arrange all of them around the support intercalating the birds and truffles.