The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 2893

Ham and Green Pea Omelet

Omelette au Jambon et aux Petits Pois

Make an omelet with three eggs the same as a parsley omelet (No. 2903), only suppressing the parsley; when done, and before folding it, put in two tablespoonfuls of lean cooked ham cut in three-sixteenths inch squares, or else only one spoonful and one of green peas cooked English style (No. 2742).

For the Modern Kitchen

Ranhofer writes in shorthand: the whole method sits in a cross-reference, and this entry only tells you what to fold inside. Here is what the omelet actually requires.

A Little History

The Epicurean (1894) was Charles Ranhofer's summary of some thirty years as chef at Delmonico's in New York, and its egg chapter is built the way a professional kitchen is: one master method, then dozens of variations that differ only in what is folded inside. Numbering and cross-referencing let him print an omelet in two lines because the technique was assumed knowledge for the cooks who would use the book. Ham and peas is one of those pairings — jambon and petits pois were both spring staples in the French repertoire Ranhofer trained in, and peas "cooked English style," meaning plainly boiled and buttered rather than stewed with lettuce and onion in the French manner, appears to have been a familiar distinction in nineteenth-century kitchen French. That such a modest dish sits among Delmonico's terrapin and canvasback is a reminder that even the grandest American restaurant of the period needed a short, cheap egg course.