Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes and Chives

Ranhofer writes for cooks who already know his base method at No. 2940; this entry is really a garnish instruction. Two things carry it: dry tomato and eggs pulled from the heat early.

• "Scaled" means scaldedDrop the tomatoes in boiling water for 15-30 seconds, then into cold water, and the skins slip off. Halve them across the equator as the text directs, and cut the flesh into small squares.
• Get the water outSauté the diced tomato in butter over fairly brisk heat until it stops releasing liquid and begins to fry rather than stew. Wet tomato added to soft eggs will thin them into a broken, weeping mass.
• The base methodThe method Ranhofer assumes sits at No. 2940 (scrambled eggs with gravy), which is not reproduced on this page. French scrambling of the period means seasoned beaten eggs cooked gently in butter and stirred continuously so the curd stays fine and creamy.
• "Nearly done" is earlier than it looksFrench scrambled eggs are pulled from the heat while still visibly loose and glossy; residual heat finishes them in the pan. Fold in the tomato and chives at that point and serve at once, since they will not hold.
• Chives raw, not cookedAdd the chives at the very end and only warm them through. Heat turns them grey and flattens the onion note that is the whole reason they are there.
• QuantitiesThe original gives none. Two medium tomatoes and a tablespoon of chives are enough for six eggs, serving three as a first course or two as a main.
• FinishingSome cooks of the period loosened finished scrambled eggs with a little butter or cream off the heat, though Ranhofer says nothing of it here, and gives no serving vessel or garnish for this entry.