The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 597

Chicken and Game Sauce

Sauce pour Volaille et Gibier

This sauce is prepared with some sweet oil, the juice of a lemon, chicken or game gravy, chopped fine herbs, garlic, shallots, salt and pepper.

For the Modern Kitchen

Ranhofer gives an ingredient list and nothing else, which was normal for a professional cook expected to know the ratio. What follows is what the terms mean and how the sauce behaves.

A Little History

Charles Ranhofer, chef at Delmonico's in New York, published The Epicurean in 1894 as a working reference for a professional kitchen, which is why entries like this one read as a list of components rather than a set of steps: the reader was assumed to know how a cold oil-and-lemon sauce is assembled. Adding meat gravy to what is otherwise a herbed vinaigrette is the detail worth noticing: the savour of the roast is carried back onto the cold flesh instead of being replaced by a sharp dressing. The neighbouring entry, No. 598 Cranberry Sauce, shows how freely Ranhofer set American accompaniments alongside classical French ones in the same section.