Ranhofer gives an ingredient list and nothing else, which was normal for a professional cook expected to know the ratio. What follows is what the terms mean and how the sauce behaves.
- Sweet oilThis is plain olive oil, "sweet" meaning fresh rather than rancid and not sharpened with anything. Use a mild oil rather than a peppery new-harvest one, which will fight the herbs.
- Proportions are not givenThe recipe is a frame, not a formula. As a cold sauce in the vinaigrette family it wants roughly three parts oil to one of lemon juice, with the gravy added by spoonfuls to taste; anything more precise would be invention on our part.
- Chicken or game gravyIn The Epicurean this means reduced roasting-pan juices or a concentrated brown stock, not a thickened flour gravy. It should be strong enough to taste of the bird on its own.
- It will setIt may set -- if the gravy is well reduced and gelatinous, the sauce can stiffen when chilled. Let it come back to cool room temperature and whisk it together again before serving.
- Fine herbsFines herbes in this period means parsley, chervil, tarragon and chives, chopped very fine and added at the last moment so they stay green.
- Garlic and shallotBoth go in raw and uncooked here, and both will grow louder as the sauce stands. Start with a small clove and one shallot for a cup of sauce, then taste after twenty minutes.
- Yield and servingServing -- this is a dressing spooned over sliced cold meat such as cold roast chicken, guinea fowl or leftover game, not a sauce to be heated; it sits in the book's Cold Sauces section. No yield is given.
Charles Ranhofer, chef at Delmonico's in New York, published The Epicurean in 1894 as a working reference for a professional kitchen, which is why entries like this one read as a list of components rather than a set of steps: the reader was assumed to know how a cold oil-and-lemon sauce is assembled. Adding meat gravy to what is otherwise a herbed vinaigrette is the detail worth noticing: the savour of the roast is carried back onto the cold flesh instead of being replaced by a sharp dressing. The neighbouring entry, No. 598 Cranberry Sauce, shows how freely Ranhofer set American accompaniments alongside classical French ones in the same section.