The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 848

Bressoles of Fat Livers Bressoles de Foies-Gras)

Butter some quarter-inch high, oval shaped molds; fill the bottoms and sides with foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78).

For the Foies-Gras Bressoles.—After covering the bottoms and sides with the foies-gras quenelle forcemeat, lay over a slice of foies-gras, and cover this with a little montglas salpicon (No. 747); set one mold on top of the other, so as to enclose the foies-gras and montglas, and plunge them into boiling water to poach the contents; unmold, drain on a cloth, and leave them stand until they are cold, then pare and dip them in beaten eggs; roll them in fresh bread-crumbs, smooth the surfaces with the blade of a knife, and just previous to serving, fry them a fine golden color; drain, and dress them crown-shaped on a folded napkin with a bunch of fried parsley in the center.

For the Modern Kitchen

Ranhofer writes for a brigade that already has forcemeat, salpicon and stock standing ready, so the entry reads as an assembly note rather than a recipe. The hinge is temperature control: the moulded parcels must be poached gently, then chilled hard before they are breaded, or they collapse in the fryer.

A Little History

Charles Ranhofer published The Epicurean in 1894 after some three decades as chef of Delmonico's in New York, and the book is essentially the restaurant's working repertoire set down in numbered, cross-referenced form — which is why No. 848 sends you to No. 78 and No. 747 rather than listing ingredients. A bressole (also spelled brésolle) is a thin case of forcemeat wrapped around a garnish, poached and then crumbed and fried; the origin of the name is uncertain. Montglas, the salpicon of tongue, truffle and mushroom that fills this one, is one of the standard classical garnitures, and it appears elsewhere in Ranhofer's book where he wants a rich, dark, Madeira-scented dice. The dish belongs to the hot side-dish course under which Ranhofer files it, of the kind a Delmonico's banquet menu could still support in the 1890s — labour-intensive, made in advance to the point of the final fry, and designed to arrive at table in a neat crown of identical ovals.