The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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To Clarify Stained Gin

being careful to stir it up well, and in one week it will be found to be perfectly purified.

This method must not be tried when the gin to be purified is much below proof, as in that case the potash and alum will combine with the water in the spirit, and impart to it a still more disagreeable flavor. There is also another objection to be urged against this fining, and that is, -the potash sometimes becomes attracted by the oil of juniper (for which it has an affinity) and necessarily saponifies the latter. In nine cases out of ten, however, the above recipe will answer the desired purpose, and thus we recommend it.

To remove the Blackness from Gin.

RECIPE No. 13.

Some gin has a particular blackness; to remove which, take 1 oz. of pulverized chalk, and 2 or 3 oz. of isinglass, dissolved; put this into your gin and it will become transparent. The above is enough for 50 gallons. The blackness which gin sometimes contracts by coming in contact with iron, may also be carried down by putting a solution of 2 oz. of isinglass and 1 quart of skimmed milk into the spirit. When the color is very black, which will happen by merely an iron nail having fallen into the liquor, there is no remedy, but to have the commodity distilled over again. To Clarify Stained Gin.

RECIPE No. 14.

When gin has once become much stained, the only remedy is to redistill it; when it is only slightly stained, the addition of a few pounds of acetic acid to a pipe or butt, a spoonful or two to a gallon, or a few drops to a decanterful, will usually decolor it.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is not a drink recipe but a trade formula from a rectifier's manual — instructions for salvaging spirit that has gone off-colour in the cask. Several of its steps are unlawful, unmeasured, or both, and the passage is worth reading as a document rather than following as a procedure.

A Little History

Nineteenth-century rectifiers rarely distilled from grain themselves; they bought neutral spirit in bulk, cut it, flavoured it with juniper and other botanicals, and sold it on, which meant a great deal of their craft consisted of fixing what went wrong in transit and storage. Manuals of this kind, written for the wine and liquor trade rather than the household, read as troubleshooting guides: how to strip a haze, how to kill a taint, how to disguise the fact that a butt had been standing too long or had a nail in it. The candour is striking, particularly the admission that potash will saponify the very juniper oil that makes the gin gin. Books like this are part of the paper trail that led to the pure-food agitation of the 1890s and early 1900s, when the routine chemical correction of drink moved from being a trade secret to being a public scandal, and eventually came to be constrained and disclosed by regulation.

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