The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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To Flavor Common Gin

2 drachms oil of nutmeg, 2 " " lemon, 3 “ " juniper, 3 “ N 3 " caraway, " coriander, 3 fluid oz. essence of orris root, 3 “ " " cardamom, 3 pints orange flower water, 56 to 60 lbs. lump sugar dissolved in 4 gals. pure water.

The essences and oils should be cut or dissolved in two quarts pure alcohol 95 per cent, and added gradually to the gin until the requisite flavor is produced. Then mix in the dissolved sugar, and add a sufficient quantity of soft or distilled water (having previously dissolved 4 oz. of alum in it) to make up in all 100 gals. When the whole is perfectly mixed, add 2 oz. salt of tartar, dissolved in 2 or 3 quarts of hot water, then stir up and mix the liquor well once more, and allow it to repose. In a week, or less, it will have become brilliant, and may be either racked, or drawn from the same cask.

To Sweeten Gin of any kind.

RECIPE No. 9.

To 95 gals. unsweetened gin, add : 40 or 45 lbs. lump sugar dissolved in 3 gals. clear water. Fine it down with roche alum and salt of tartar as above directed, and let it stand for one week.

To give Common Gin the Flavor of Aromatic Schiedam Schnapps.

RECIPE No. 10.

To 25 gals. common gin, 5 o. p., add :

TO CLEAN GIN THAT MAY BE TAINTED. 15 pints strained honey, 2 gals. clear water, 5 pints white sugar syrup, 66 5 spirit of nutmegs mixed with the acetic ether (see "Nutmeg and Mace"), 5 pints orange flower water, 7 quarts pure water, 1 oz. acetic ether, 8 drops oil of wintergreen dissolved with the acetic ether.

Mix all the ingredients well; if necessary, fine with alum and salt of tartar. The manufacturer must bear in mind that the common gin used in this recipe must be entirely free from any disagreeable taste or flavor. Finings for Gin.

RECIPE No. 11.

To 100 gals. gin, take 4 oz. roche alum, and put it into a pint of pure water; boil it until it is dissolved. then gradually add 4 oz. salt of tartar; when nearly cold put it into the gin, and stir it well with a staff for ten minutes. The liquor must not be covered until it is fine; when this is accomplished, cover it up tight to prevent its losing its strength.

To Clean Gin that may be Tainted.

RECIPE No. 12.

In cases when gin has any disagreeable taste, such as a musty or faint flavor, to remove it, use, for 100 gals., 4 oz. potash and 4 oz. roche alum; mix them with 2 quarts of water, and boil until they are dissolved; then add 4 oz. salt of tartar. Mix this in the tainted gin,

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a trade formula from a nineteenth-century rectifier's manual: a scheme for turning 100 gallons of neutral spirit into something that could be sold as gin, followed by companion recipes for sweetening, imitating Schiedam schnapps, and chemically stripping off-flavors. It is documentary rather than usable, and several of its components have no place in anything anyone drinks.

A Little History

Books of this kind — and there were dozens of them through the second half of the nineteenth century — were sold to publicans, grocers and wholesale liquor dealers rather than to households, and they document a trade in which "gin" often meant neutral spirit bought by the barrel and flavored on the premises. The tell is Recipe No. 12: a formula for removing a musty or faint taint from 100 gallons of stock, which assumes the reader's problem is not how to make good spirit but how to sell doubtful spirit. The Schiedam entry points at the Dutch distilling town whose name was attached to Holland gin (genever itself takes its name from juniper), and to the heavily advertised Wolfe's Aromatic Schiedam Schnapps then being sold in America as a medicinal cordial — the manual is offering a way to counterfeit a branded product. Legislation such as the British Sale of Food and Drugs Act of 1875 and the U.S. Pure Food and Drugs Act of 1906 was aimed squarely at the practices set out on pages like this one, and the genre largely disappeared once adulteration became a matter for inspectors.

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