The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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To Make Angostura Bitters

be infused for 5 or 6 days in 95 per cent. alcohol. The color can be deepened with cherry juice. Brandy, rum, whiskey and arrack punch may be made as above, substituting the liquor for the wine and spirits. To make French Cognac Bitters.

Take 1½ pounds each red Peruvian bark, calisaya bark, bitter orange peel, and sweet orange peel; 2 ounces calamus root ; 4 ounces cardamom seeds; 1½ ounces each cinnamon, cloves, and nutmegs; 4 ounces caraway seed, and 3 pounds wild cherry bark. Pound or granulate all the above ingredients well, and steep for 15 days in 45 gallons proof spirit (or 60 gallons spirit 25 below proof), stirring occasionally. Then rack it off, and mix sufficient caramel to make it a dark red; add 15 pounds white sugar dissolved in 15 gallons water; let the whole settle, then filter. If the bitters are required to be of an amber color, omit the wild cherry bark and the caramel coloring. This splendid bitters is even superior to the Amazon bitters, which it very much resembles.

To make Angostura Bitters.

Take 4 ounces gentian root; 10 ounces each calisaya bark, Canada snake-root, Virginia snake-root, liquorice root, yellow bark, allspice, dandelion root, and angostura bark; 6 ounces cardamom seeds; 4 ounces each balsam of tolu, orangetis, Turkey rhubarb, and galanga; 1 pound orange peel; 1 pound alkanet root ; 1½ ounces caraway seed ; 1½ ounces cinnamon 1/2 ounce cloves; 2 ounces each nutmegs, coriander seed, catechu, and wormwood; 1 ounce mace; 1¼ pounds red saunders, and 8 ounces curcuma. Pound these ingredients and steep them as in the last receipt, in 50 gallons

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a commercial compounder's formula, printed in a trade manual for liquor merchants rather than for a household. Several of its botanicals are no longer considered fit for consumption, and the text as transcribed is corrupt in places.

A Little History

Angostura bitters take their name from the Venezuelan town of Angostura on the Orinoco, now Ciudad Bolívar, where a German-born surgeon in Bolívar's army, Johann Gottlieb Benjamin Siegert, is generally credited with compounding them in the 1820s as a stomachic; the family firm later moved production to Trinidad. The formula was and remains a trade secret, which is precisely why books like this one existed: nineteenth-century liquor manuals sold rectifiers and wholesalers plausible imitations of branded goods, alongside recipes for "French Cognac" and "Amazon" bitters that had never seen France or the Amazon. One quiet joke of the genre is that the compounder here dutifully includes angostura bark (Galipea officinalis), a bitter the genuine article is not believed to contain at all. The long list of barks, roots and dyewoods also shows how close the bitters trade sat to the druggist's counter — gentian, cinchona and rhubarb were pharmacy stock, and a bitters bottle was sold as much for the digestion as for the drink.

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