The Home Cook Book

The ladies of 1870s Chicago pooled their recipes and signed every one — corned beef from Mrs. Beaty, lemon pie from Mrs. Saulter.

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To Can Tomatoes

Mrs. Edward Ely.

Wash your tomatoes and cut out any places that are green or imperfect; then cut them up and put over to cook with a little salt; boil them till perfectly soft ; then strain them through a colander; turn them back to co ok and when they have come to boiling heat, pour them into stone jugs (one or two gallon jugs as you prefer). They will keep a day or two in winter if all are not used at a time; put the cork in, and have some canning cement hot and pour over the cork. The jug must of course, be hot, when the tomatoes are poured in.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a sealed-jug method for tomato pulp, and the seal is the problem. The points below explain why it cannot be followed, and what the archaic terms mean.

A Little History

Open-kettle canning of this kind is generally said to have been widespread in American domestic practice through much of the nineteenth century: fill the vessel with boiling food, close it at once, and trust that the heat of the contents had made everything within sterile. Tomatoes were the great candidate for it, since a household that grew them faced a glut over a few weeks. Canning cement, sold ready-made or mixed at home, was what made the stoneware jug a plausible container before glass jars with rubber rings became cheap. The bacterial cause of botulism was not identified until the 1890s, and pressure canning did not reach American kitchens in any numbers until the 1910s and 20s, so Mrs. Ely was recording ordinary competent practice for her day. The recipe survives here as a record of that practice rather than as instruction.

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