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Chicken Saute, Gould
Singe, cut neck and feet off a two-and-a-half pound tender chicken, neatly draw and wipe, then cut in twelve equal pieces, except spinal bone, place on a plate, season with a teaspoon salt and half teaspoon pepper. Thoroughly heat an ounce fresh butter in a sautoire, lay in pieces of chicken one beside another, then gently cook for five minutes on each side. Add one finely sliced onion, half a sliced sound green pepper, a sliced leek and an ounce finely chopped lean salt pork. Cut the tails off twenty-four very small, cleaned fresh mushrooms, add tails to chicken, keep heads on a plate for further use, mix well and brown for five minutes, stirring once in a while. Pour in one and a half gills good white wine, let briskly reduce on fire to almost a glaze, pour in three gills white broth and let reduce to half the quantity. Lift up chicken with a fork and keep on plate in a warm place. Pour one and a half gills cream in the sautoire, then cook on open fire for ten minutes, constantly stirring with a wooden spoon meanwhile. Mix on a saucer a half ounce fresh butter, half an ounce flour and one egg yolk. Incorporate this mixture little by little with the sauce, sharply mixing while adding, and keep hot. Thoroughly wash and drain heads of mushrooms, place in saucepan with half ounce butter, tablespoon sherry, and briskly fry for five minutes. Sprinkle over two saltspoons salt, the juice of a quarter lemon, toss well, then add chicken and a small truffle cut in small squares. Strain sauce through cheesecloth into pan, mix well while beating for three minutes, dress chicken on a hot dish, pour entire contents of pan over, arrange six timbales of rice around dish and serve.
A Delmonico-style chicken sauté built on a wine-and-cream reduction finished with an egg-yolk liaison. Nothing about it is difficult, but the sauce will curdle if it is allowed to boil after the yolk goes in.
- The hinge: the liaisonThe butter, flour and egg yolk worked together on a saucer is a beurre manié enriched with yolk. Whisk it in off a hard boil, a little at a time, and hold the sauce below a simmer (about 180F) thereafter. A rolling boil scrambles the yolk and the sauce breaks into grains.
- GillsA gill is half a cup. So one and a half gills of wine is 3/4 cup, three gills of broth is 1 1/2 cups, and one and a half gills of cream is another 3/4 cup.
- Saltspoon and sautoireA saltspoon is a quarter teaspoon, so two saltspoons is 1/2 teaspoon. A sautoire is a straight-sided sauté pan; a 12-inch skillet with a lid does the job.
- Cutting the birdA 2 1/2 lb chicken is smaller than most supermarket birds now; a 3 to 3 1/2 lb chicken cut into 10 to 12 pieces works. The recipe explicitly excludes the spinal bone from the twelve pieces.