The International Cook Book

Over three thousand recipes from the man who cooked at Delmonico's — French sauces, Italian pastas, Indian curries and American pies, the whole eating world of 1906 in one volume.

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Minced Turkey, Creole

Prepare a Creole sauce and keep hot. Pick all the meat from the turkey left over from yesterday, slice it into very thin slices, then add to the Creole sauce. Season with two saltspoons salt and two saltspoons white pepper, adding a gill hot tomato sauce, lightly mix, cook for ten minutes, frequently stirring meanwhile. Pour into a hot dish and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

A leftover-turkey dish that depends almost entirely on a sauce the book expects you to have made already. Read it as: hot Creole sauce, thin slices of cooked turkey warmed through in it, ten minutes at a bare simmer.

A Little History

This is a second-day recipe, and the book is candid about it: the turkey is "left over from yesterday." Cookbooks of the early twentieth century devoted whole chapters to remakes of the roast, because a large bird was an expensive investment and a cook was judged partly on how little she wasted. Sending the remains through a Creole sauce reflects the period's habit of treating regional American cooking as a set of transferable flavour formulas: "Creole" on a hotel or cookbook menu is often said to have meant little more than tomato, onion, green pepper and a touch of cayenne rather than any particular New Orleans dish, and it was applied to eggs, fish, veal and leftovers alike. The doubling of tomato here, sauce plus more sauce, is a striking feature of the recipe, though the reason for it is not recorded.

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