The Metropolitan Cook Book

A life insurance company teaching its policyholders to eat: the Metropolitan's own cookbook, given away from the tower on Madison Square.

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Double Crust Pie

Fit the lower crust as for single crust pie, but do not build up edge. Have the upper crust rolled out before filling is put in, or else lower crust will become soaked and soggy. The upper crust should be rolled a little larger than needed. The filling should not be piled high, but levelled to avoid cooking over while baking. Moisten the edge of the upper and lower crust with water when the edges are being fluted. The upper crust should always be perforated, so that the steam may escape. Attractive designs may be cut out with a knife or a pastry jagger. The perforated upper crust should be placed loosely and not stretched over the filling. For a juicy filling, add a small amount of flour to the sugar to prevent the juice escaping from the pie. Sometimes for berry pies, the lower crust is folded over the upper crust, thus making a thick three-layer edge to prevent the escape of the filling. Another way of keeping the juice from boiling out is to brush the bottom of the lower crust with white of egg. Double crust pies usually take between 40 and 50 minutes for baking and require an oven temperature of about 450°F. until crust is brown then 350°F. 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1¼ cups warm water

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a method entry rather than a formula: it assumes you already have pastry and a filling, and tells you how to put them together. Everything here still holds, with a few clarifications.

A Little History

Instructional pages like this one are the backbone of early twentieth-century company cookbooks, which were written for households where a young cook might have no one to learn pastry from at the elbow. The Metropolitan Life Insurance Company distributed its cook book free to policyholders as part of a broader welfare and health-education campaign, and its tone throughout is that of a patient teacher: the reasoning behind each step is given, not just the step. The particular anxieties here, a soaked bottom crust and juice boiling over onto the oven floor, tell you something about the equipment of the period, when cleaning a spill meant scraping the floor of a coal or early gas range. The pastry jagger mentioned in passing is the toothed cutting wheel long used for crimping and decorating pie edges, a tool that had already been a kitchen fixture for generations by the time this was printed.

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