The Metropolitan Cook Book

A life insurance company teaching its policyholders to eat: the Metropolitan's own cookbook, given away from the tower on Madison Square.

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Pot Roast of Beef-Gravy

Nearly any of the tougher meats may be used. The rump or lower part of the round is preferable. Wipe meat, sear in hot frying pan, or in the kettle for roasting. Lard outer surface if meat is lean, or few slices of salt pork may be cooked with meat. After meat is seared, add 1/2 cup boiling water to 2 pounds meat, and cover tightly. Cook slowly until meat is very tender and well browned, adding only enough water to prevent burning. Season when nearly done. Serve with brown gravy made with liquid left in the pan. Instead of water, strained tomatoes may be used with pot roast. For seasoning, in addition to salt and pepper a bit of bay leaf, parsley, a few cloves, or slices of carrot may be cooked with the roast.

For the Modern Kitchen

A braise stripped to its essentials: sear, a little liquid, tight lid, long slow heat. The instructions assume a cook who already knows what tender means, so the numbers below fill in what the original leaves out.

A Little History

Pot roasting is the American kitchen's answer to a problem every household faced before refrigeration and grain finishing made tender beef ordinary: most of the animal was tough, and dry oven heat only made it tougher. Searing then sealing the meat with a splash of liquid — the method the French call braiser and German cooks knew as Schmorbraten — turns collagen to gelatin and rewards cheap cuts. That this appears in a book issued by the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company is telling: the company distributed free cookbooks and health pamphlets to policyholders through the early twentieth century as part of a broad welfare-and-hygiene campaign, and the recipes lean hard toward economy, plain seasoning and the profitable use of what a working household could actually afford. The suggestion to use "strained tomatoes" instead of water marks the period as well — canned tomatoes were becoming more widely available, and they quietly entered older meat recipes as a substitute for stock.

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