The Modern Method of Preparing Delightful Foods

Ida Bailey Allen tells the story of American corn — Plymouth breakfasts to the Great War — and hangs a day's four meals on it, for the company that made Karo and Mazola.

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Lemon Icing

1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon top milk 1 tablespoon Mazola Few grains salt 1 tablespoon Argo or Kingsford's Cornstarch Sifted confectioner's sugar to spread, about 1½ cups Combine the ingredients in the order given, adding the sugar about two tablespoonfuls at a time-beating thoroughly.

For the Modern Kitchen

A quick uncooked glaze built on brand-name products from a corn refiner's promotional booklet. It comes together in one bowl, but two of the five ingredients need translating.

A Little History

This comes from the era when American cookbooklets were written by ingredient manufacturers to sell ingredients, and the tell is right there in the ingredient list: Mazola, Argo, and Kingsford's were all brands of the Corn Products Refining Company, formed in 1906, with Mazola corn oil introduced a few years later. Argo and Kingsford's cornstarch were labels the company ran side by side, which is why a recipe can offer them as alternatives to each other. The dish itself is unremarkable — an icing of a kind found in any period cake chapter — but naming three house products in five lines, and using oil where a cook would ordinarily reach for butter, is what makes it worth a second look.

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