The Modern Method of Preparing Delightful Foods

Ida Bailey Allen tells the story of American corn — Plymouth breakfasts to the Great War — and hangs a day's four meals on it, for the company that made Karo and Mazola.

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Pumpkin or Squash Custard Pie

1¼ cups cooked sifted pumpkin or squash 1¼ cups Karo, Orange or Blue Label 3/4 teaspoon salt 2 eggs 1 tablespoon Argo or Kingsford's Cornstarch 1¼ cups rich milk 1¼ teaspoons cinnamon 1/3 teaspoon ginger Flaky Pie Crust Line a deep pie plate with the crust, fluting the edge. Combine all the other ingredients, pour into the plate and bake until firm in the center, in a moderate oven, 350 to 375 degrees F.

For the Modern Kitchen

A corn-syrup-sweetened pumpkin custard from a Corn Products Refining Company booklet, so every branded ingredient is one of theirs. The measurements printed as "11/4" are 1 1/4 cups throughout.

A Little History

This comes from one of the promotional cookbooks issued by the Corn Products Refining Company, the maker of Karo syrup, Argo and Kingsford's cornstarch and Mazola oil. Such booklets were widely distributed in the early twentieth century, and their purpose shows in the recipes: sugar is replaced entirely by corn syrup, and cornstarch appears where a plain custard would need none. Karo was introduced in the first decade of the 1900s and marketed hard as a modern, economical sweetener, and its makers pushed it into the whole American baking repertoire, pumpkin pie included. The dish itself is older than the booklet by centuries in spirit: New England cooks were baking spiced pumpkin custards in pastry from the colonial period, and the pairing of pumpkin with cinnamon and ginger was settled long before canned purée or bottled syrup existed. What is distinctly modern here is the confidence with which the recipe names an oven temperature in degrees, a habit that only became general once household ovens carried thermostats.

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