The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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August 19

Menu: Vegetarian; Cream of Turnip Soup; Risotto; Asparagus Salad; Coffee Souffle; Ginger Crisps; Iced Tea Ginger Crisps-Cream 1/2 cup Crisco with 1/2 cup sugar, add 1 cup molasses, 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon and nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons baking powder, and flour to make stiffish dough. Roll thin, cut out with cutter and bake in quick oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

A one-line molasses cookie from the dated menu calendar at the back of the Crisco book. The dough is soft when mixed and firms up in the cold, which is the key to rolling it thin.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913), written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble, was published to teach American cooks what to do with a fat that had no precedent in their kitchens: Crisco, introduced in 1911, was hydrogenated cottonseed oil sold as a substitute for both lard and butter. Rolled molasses crisps were an obvious showcase: molasses cookies were long-established household baking, cheap and durable, and the recipe's brevity assumes a cook who already knew how thin to roll and how a stiff dough should feel.

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