The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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For Filling (Teaspoonful Crisco ounce)

1 teaspoonful Crisco 1 ounce chocolate 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract ½ cupful hot water ½ cupful brown sugar ½ cupful granulated sugar Pinch salt For cake. Put granulated sugar into small pan and melt over fire till brown, remove from fire, add boiling water, stir quickly, return to stove, and stir until thick syrup; set aside to cool. Beat Crisco and sugar to a cream, add eggs well beaten, flour, baking powder, salt, vanilla, three tablespoonfuls of the syrup and water. Mix and beat two minutes, then divide into two Criscoed and floured layer tins and bake in moderate oven twenty minutes.

For filling. Melt granulated sugar in small pan and stir until it becomes a light brown syrup, add the water gradually, then brown sugar, Crisco, salt, and chocolate stirring all the time. Cook until it forms a soft ball when tried in cold water, or 240° F. Remove from fire, add vanilla, beat until creamy, then spread between cakes. Sufficient for one layer cake. 1 cupful sugar 3/4 teaspoonfuls salt

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list here has been scrambled in printing — the cake and the filling quantities are jumbled together, and the cake's eggs, flour and baking powder never appear at all. Treat the filling as the usable recipe and use a plain two-layer butter cake underneath it.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was a promotional cookbook issued by Procter & Gamble to teach American cooks what to do with a wholly new substance: hydrogenated cottonseed oil, sold as a shortening that behaved like lard but came from a plant. The book repeatedly inserts Crisco where butter, lard or suet had been, which is why a teaspoonful of it turns up in a caramel filling that hardly needs fat at all. The filling itself is a burnt-sugar caramel, a flavour popular in American layer cakes from the late nineteenth century into the 1920s and often called simply "caramel" or "burnt sugar" icing; melting dry sugar to brown and then dissolving it in boiling water gave cooks a syrup usable for both cake and frosting. The garbled state of this page looks like two ingredient columns running together in transcription.

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