The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Black Cake with Prune Filling

1½ cupfuls sugar ½ teaspoonful salt 3 eggs 1/2 cupful Crisco 1 cupful milk ½ teaspoonful baking soda 2 cupfuls flour 1 teaspoonful baking powder ½ teaspoonful vanilla extract 1/3 cake chocolate

For the Modern Kitchen

This is an ingredient list rather than a full recipe — the method, the oven, the pan and the prune filling itself all sat elsewhere in the book or were assumed known. What follows fills in what a modern cook needs to work from it.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was a promotional cookbook: Procter & Gamble had launched Crisco, a hydrogenated cottonseed shortening, in 1911, and needed to teach cooks what to do with a solid white fat that was neither butter nor lard. Marion Harris Neil supplied hundreds of recipes, and cakes were the natural showcase, since a bland, uniform shortening creams predictably and does not carry the flavour or salt variability of butter. "Black cake" is a slippery name " in earlier English and Caribbean usage it means a dark, spirit-soaked fruitcake " though here it attaches to a chocolate layer cake pushed dark with baking soda.

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