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Grape Fruit Punch
The punch for luncheon. Maraschino or sherry mixed with the pulp of the fruit, malaga grapes seeded, and skinned, Weisbaden cherries, shredded pineapple, sugar. Partially frozen, it is served in the dainty side handled punch glasses.
This is a sketch rather than a formula — no quantities, no timings, and one ambiguous ingredient name. What it wants is a grapefruit frappé: fruit, sugar, a little fortified wine or liqueur, chilled until slushy.
- No quantities givenThe original assumes a cook who knows the proportions. For a workable starting point, treat it as roughly equal volumes of grapefruit pulp and mixed fruit, sugar to taste, and spirit as a flavouring rather than the base — a few tablespoons per quart, not a cup.
- Maraschino means the liqueurMaraschino of this period was a clear cherry liqueur from Dalmatia, made with the kernels as well as the fruit, not the pink syrup that jarred cocktail cherries sit in. Use a genuine maraschino liqueur, or the sherry alternative the recipe offers, and note that sherry gives a nuttier, less almond-scented result.
- Weisbaden cherriesMost likely candied or preserved cherries of the type associated with Wiesbaden, a town that traded in glace and brandied fruit. Any good candied or brandied cherry stands in; drain them well so the syrup does not oversweeten the whole bowl.
- Malaga grapesA large, thick-skinned, seeded white grape then sold as a winter dessert fruit. Seedless green grapes need no seeding or skinning, but halve them so they do not roll around whole in the glass.
- Grapefruit pulpSegment over a bowl and pull the pulp free of the bitter membrane and pith, which turns sharply bitter once sugared and chilled. Reserve the juice that escapes; it becomes the liquid of the punch.
- "Partially frozen"The target is a coarse slush, not a solid block. Freeze in a shallow pan and rake with a fork every 20 to 30 minutes for two to three hours; alcohol and sugar both slow freezing, so it will stay scrapeable.
- Yield and servingPunch glasses of the period held about four ounces, so a quart of the mixture serves eight. Spoon it in and serve immediately — it slumps within a few minutes at room temperature.
Grapefruit was still a relative novelty in American households at this date: commercially significant Florida plantings date only to the last decades of the nineteenth century, and the fruit was marketed as a refined breakfast or luncheon item rather than a staple. The recipe leans on imported and preserved luxuries (Malaga grapes shipped for winter dessert, Wiesbaden glace cherries, Dalmatian maraschino, tinned or fresh pineapple) assembled to be looked at as much as drunk. The half-frozen serving reflects a period fashion for frappes and "punch" courses at ladies' luncheons.