With a Saucepan Over the Sea

Adelaide Keen went abroad with a notebook and came home with the recipes — cocka leekie from Scotland, petite marmite from Paris, the maids of honor of Richmond — each dish tagged with the country that gave it.

HomeFish, Eggs, and Sauces › Fried Eggs (Marseilles Fry four very fresh)

Fried Eggs (Marseilles Fry four very fresh)

(Marseilles.) Fry four very fresh eggs in olive oil, drain them, add to the oil in the pan 1/2 cup of consomme, 1/2 a green pepper, chopped and free from seeds, and 6 mushrooms. Cook this carefully, and pour around the eggs.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-line Provençal egg dish that depends almost entirely on the oil being hot enough and the sauce being reduced before it meets the eggs. Everything else is assembly.

A Little History

The Marseilles label points to the Provençal habit of frying eggs in olive oil rather than butter, a plain regional distinction worth naming after a city. The brevity here is typical, the assumption being that a cook already knew how to fry an egg and needed only the local trick. The combination of sweet pepper, mushrooms and a spoonful of clear meat stock also suggests the professional French kitchen, where a small reduction of consomme could turn a few vegetables into a sauce without flour.

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