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Pineapple Fritters
(France.) Take some fritters as in recipe for Vienna fritters, fry in lard, and split each fritter before serving, fill with some pineapple jam, or stewed fruit, boiled down and flavored with vanilla. Close the fritters, arrange on a dish, dust with sugar, glaze them, and serve with whipped cream.
This is a finishing recipe rather than a complete one: the batter comes from the book's Vienna fritters, and everything here is about filling and glazing. A few points on what that base almost certainly is, and how to handle the frying and the glaze.
- What the base fritter isA fritter that can be split and filled after frying is one that hollows as it puffs: either a choux-paste fritter (the French beignet souffl aised dough fritter of the Viennese Krapfen type. Check the book's Vienna fritter recipe before assuming which. If it turns out to be bread soaked in custard, split-and-fill still works, but the result is a different, denser dish.
- Fat and temperatureLard fries cleanly at 350-360F, which is the right range for choux fritters: hotter and the outside colours before the inside sets, leaving raw paste in the middle. Any neutral frying fat with a comparable smoke point does the same job.
- Don't crowd, and let them turnIf the base is a choux paste, the fritters roll themselves over as they puff. Fry a few at a time so the fat holds temperature, and give them long enough to set through; a fritter pulled early collapses as it cools and cannot be split.
- Fill only when nearly coolJam in a hot fritter runs straight out. Split them once they are just warm, spoon in the filling, and close.
- "Boiled down"If using stewed fruit rather than jam, reduce it until a spoon drawn through the pan leaves a track. Loose fruit will soak the fried shell within minutes.
- GlazingHere "glaze" most likely means dusting heavily with fine sugar and passing the dish briefly under a very hot grill or broiler (the period salamander) until the sugar melts and catches. Watch it constantly tthe point between glossy and burnt is a matter of seconds, and the whipped cream should be added only after.
- YieldThe recipe gives none, and cannot be pinned down without the Vienna fritter recipe it refers back to; a batch of that size would serve a small table as a dessert.
With a Saucepan over the Sea belongs to a genre popular around the turn of the twentieth century: the collection of foreign dishes gathered as a kind of armchair travel, each recipe tagged with its country the way a souvenir is tagged with its city. Hence the bare