With a Saucepan Over the Sea

Adelaide Keen went abroad with a notebook and came home with the recipes — cocka leekie from Scotland, petite marmite from Paris, the maids of honor of Richmond — each dish tagged with the country that gave it.

HomeCakes, Puddings, and Pastry › Quince Pie

Quince Pie

(Spain.) Line a plate with paste, bake it brown, fill it with a layer of quince marmalade, then whipped cream, flavored with sugar and wine, and decorated with preserved cherries, angelica, or citron. Serve cold.

For the Modern Kitchen

A no-bake assembly on a fully blind-baked shell, so nearly everything depends on the pastry being crisp and the filling being firm.

A Little History

Quince is one of the oldest preserving fruits in the Iberian kitchen — too hard and astringent to eat raw, but so high in pectin that it sets into a sliceable block, which is exactly what dulce de membrillo is. The English word marmalade comes from the Portuguese marmelo, quince, and originally meant this kind of solid quince paste rather than anything made with oranges. Adelaide Keen's book collects dishes gathered country by country, and the "(Spain.)" tag here is doing the work of a whole recipe: the assumption is that the reader can buy or make quince paste and simply needs to be told the Spanish way of presenting it, on a crisp baked shell under sweetened cream. The candied cherries, angelica and citron are the standard decorative trio of turn-of-the-century pastry work, used as much for colour as for flavour.

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