With a Saucepan Over the Sea

Adelaide Keen went abroad with a notebook and came home with the recipes — cocka leekie from Scotland, petite marmite from Paris, the maids of honor of Richmond — each dish tagged with the country that gave it.

HomeCakes, Puddings, and Pastry › Yorkshire Pudding

Yorkshire Pudding

Make a batter of 6 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, and 1/2 pound of flour. Beat well and pour into a shallow pan. Fill with 1 pound steak and 1/2 pound stewed kidney, cut in slices, and 1 cup of stock. Lay the rest of the batter over. Bake 3 hours. Serve hot. This is really an entree.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is not the crisp popover-style Yorkshire pudding of a modern roast dinner but a baked batter pudding with meat set in it — closer to what English cooks called toad-in-the-hole. Read it that way and the long bake makes sense.

A Little History

The batter pudding cooked in the same fire as the meat is far older than the name; it began as a "dripping pudding" set beneath the roasting spit to catch the fat, and Hannah Glasse's The Art of Cookery of 1747 is generally credited with fixing the label "Yorkshire pudding" in print. Its original household purpose was economy: served first, with gravy, it took the edge off appetites before the expensive joint appeared, which is why old northern kitchens insisted the pudding came before the beef and not beside it. The version here takes the logic a step further by burying the meat in the batter altogether, a treatment English cookery also called toad-in-the-hole.

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