365 Dishes of All Nations · 1908

French Stewed Rabbits

The dish for December 22 — from the French kitchen

December 22 — No. 22
French

Skin and clean the rabbits; cut into pieces at the joints; season well. Heat 2 tablespoonfuls of drippings in a stew-pan; add the rabbits, 1 onion and 2 cloves of garlic sliced fine, 1 bay-leaf, 2 sprigs of parsley and thyme. Let all brown a few minutes; then add 1 cup of hot water and cook slowly until tender. Thicken the sauce with flour and butter; add a glass of claret; boil up and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain braise that depends almost entirely on how long the rabbit gets. The original gives no time at all, and the difference between farmed and wild is the difference between an hour and two and a half.

A Little History

Rabbit was cheap meat across nineteenth-century Europe, wild where there was land to shoot over and hutch-raised in back gardens where there was not, and French cookery kept it firmly in the repertoire. The method here is the standard domestic sauté-then-braise: fat, aromatics, a brown, a little liquid, a thickening of flour and butter, a splash of wine to finish. Claret, the British term for red Bordeaux, signals the book's audience more than its kitchen — this is a French dish explained to English-speaking readers. The volume itself belongs to a popular early twentieth-century genre, the dish-a-day calendar cookbook, which offered a different nation each evening and treated "French" as a single cuisine. Rabbit's reputation as everyday food held in France well into the twentieth century.