Stuffing for Hearts

A dry, old-style forcemeat meant to be packed into veal or beef hearts before a long braise. It is a component recipe, so the important information is what happens to it after it is mixed.

• The hinge: it needs moisture from the meatAs written the mixture is bone dry, with only the salt pork for fat. It relies on being sealed inside a heart and braised for hours so the meat juices soak in. If you cook it loose in a dish it will stay sawdust; bind it with a beaten egg and a few tablespoons of stock in that case.
• Cracker crumbsPlain soda crackers are the likely intention, though the recipe does not specify. Saltines work but reduce the added salt, since the salt pork is already salty. Roughly 1½ ounces of crackers gives the half cup called for.
• "2 blades celery"Blades here means ribs from the stalk, not the leaves — about two full ribs, finely diced. Include a few leaves for flavour if the head has them.
• Fat salt porkA two-inch cube is roughly 4 ounces. Salt pork varies a great deal in saltiness; blanch it a minute in boiling water and drain if yours is aggressive. Unsmoked pork belly or blanched pancetta substitutes cleanly. Bacon brings smoke the recipe does not intend.
• YieldAbout enough for one or two veal hearts; a beef heart would need the quantities increased. Pack it in loosely, then tie or skewer the opening shut; the crumbs swell.
• Cooking the stuffed heartThe recipe itself says nothing about cooking. Heart is all working muscle and wants long moist heat: in modern practice, brown it, then braise covered in stock at 300–325F for 2½ to 3½ hours until a skewer goes in with no resistance.
• Seasoning blindBetter not to taste a mixture containing raw pork, so season by measure: about ¾ teaspoon salt and a generous ¼ teaspoon pepper, adjusted down if the pork is very salty. Fry a small spoonful in a pan to check if you want certainty.