A New Snowdrift Cook Book

Mrs. Ida Bailey Allen for the Southern Cotton Oil Trading Company, 1920 — a shortening tin's cookbook, and a lesson in how fat was sold.

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Crab Meat Omelet

This is an adaptation of a Puffy Omelet. Fry two minced onions in two tablespoonfuls of Snowdrift until tender. Then add a cupful of flaked crab meat, a fourth teaspoonful of paprika, a half teaspoonful of celery salt and a half teaspoonful of salt. Make up once the recipe for a Puffy Omelet, spread this crab meat mixture over it, cut at right angles to the handle, fold and serve with, or without, Cream or White Sauce No. 2.

For the Modern Kitchen

A filled soufflé omelet from a shortening-company cookbook, written on the assumption that the reader has already turned to the Puffy Omelet and White Sauce pages. Two of those cross-references matter more than anything in the paragraph itself.

A Little History

A New Snowdrift Cook Book belongs to a genre that flourished in the early twentieth century: the branded cookbook, published by a manufacturer to teach cooks how to use an unfamiliar product. Snowdrift was a cottonseed-oil shortening, and cottonseed oil had gone in a few decades from a waste product of the Southern cotton crop to a cheap rival of lard and butter, which meant every recipe in the book quietly demonstrates that the new fat could fry, cream and bake like the old ones. The dish itself is a French soufflé omelet dressed in American convenience goods. Canned crab meat, celery salt and paprika were all fashionable pantry items of the era, and celery salt in particular turns up constantly in seafood cookery of the period, an association with crab that survives in the seasoning blends still sold around the Chesapeake.

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