Breakfast, Dessert, Supper

Four hundred recipes from Auburn, New York, 1881 — the oldest cookbook here, and the only one written by a woman for herself.

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Cocoanut Custard Cake

One coffee cup of sugar, a piece of butter the size of an egg, the whites of three well beaten eggs, one-half teaspoon soda dissolved in one tablespoon of hot water, one wine glass of milk, one coffee cup flour, one teaspoon cream tartar, sifted with the flour; bake in jelly cake tins.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain white layer cake leavened the pre-baking-powder way, with the coconut custard left entirely to the cook's judgment. The measurements are all household vessels rather than standard cups.

A Little History

Layer cakes filled with a boiled custard belong to the second half of the nineteenth century, when cheap flat tinware and chemical leavening made thin, quick-baking layers practical for home bakers. Soda with cream of tartar was a common household leavening, and recipes went on specifying the two separately after tinned baking powder was widely available on shop shelves. Coconut reached northern American kitchens as whole nuts shipped from the Caribbean, and grating one was laborious enough that a coconut cake read as special occasion baking; the trade in packaged shredded coconut in the closing decades of the century is what moved it toward everyday baking.

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