Breakfast, Dessert, Supper

Four hundred recipes from Auburn, New York, 1881 — the oldest cookbook here, and the only one written by a woman for herself.

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Pop Corn Pudding

Soak two quarts of freshly popped corn in three pints sweet milk over night. When ready to bake add three well beaten eggs, a little salt, and sugar to taste. Bake like a custard.

For the Modern Kitchen

A soaked-corn custard of the sort that turned a bowl of leftover popcorn into a baked dessert. The soaking is the whole point: the corn swells and softens into something closer to a bread pudding than to popcorn.

A Little History

Popcorn was a cheap and widely available American commodity in the nineteenth century, popped at home over the fire and, by the later part of the century, sold by street vendors long before it belonged to the cinema. Cookbooks of the period do put it to domestic use rather than treating it purely as a curiosity: it appears in balls, in candy, occasionally as a garnish for soup in place of croutons, and here in a custard. The technique is the same one behind bread pudding and its many cousins - a stale or dry starch swelled overnight in milk, then bound with egg and baked - a family of dishes that made use of what would otherwise be thrown away.

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