Apple Ice

One line of instruction and no measurements at all, which was normal for a fruit ice in 1877 — the cook was expected to taste and judge. A few things need filling in.

• ProportionsReckon on about 1 cup sugar to 4 cups grated fruit pulp, adjusted to the fruit's own sweetness. Sugar is not optional seasoning here: it depresses the freezing point and keeps the ice from setting into a solid block.
• Grate, then acidulate at onceGrated apple, pear and quince brown within minutes. Grate straight into a bowl with the juice of half a lemon per pound of fruit; the acid also sharpens what is otherwise a flat, sweet ice.
• Quinces are the exceptionRaw quince is hard, astringent and close to inedible. If you use quince, poach and sieve it first; the recipe as printed gives no such instruction and simply lists quinces with the rest.
• What "freeze" meantA hand-cranked freezer packed with ice and rock salt, churned continuously. An ice-cream machine does the same job. Without one, freeze in a shallow pan and break up the crystals with a fork every 30 minutes for about three hours, which gives a granita texture rather than a smooth ice.
• Canned fruitModern canned fruit is packed in heavy syrup or in juice, and syrup-packed fruit arrives already sweetened. Drain it, mash it, and cut the added sugar back accordingly — then taste before freezing.
• TextureGrated raw apple keeps a fibrous shred that some find pleasant and some do not. Pulsing the sweetened pulp in a blender or pushing it through a sieve gives a smoother ice; leave it coarse if you want the older character.
• Yield and servingTwo pounds of fruit makes roughly a quart, serving six as a small course. Serve within a day; without egg, cream or stabiliser it turns icy and hard in the freezer overnight, and needs 15 minutes at room temperature before scooping.