Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Chocolate Cake (One cup butter three of brown)

One cup butter, three of brown sugar, one of sweet milk, four of flour, yolks of seven eggs, nine table-spoons grated Baker's chocolate, three tea-spoons baking powder. This may be baked as a layer cake, making a white cake of the whites of the eggs, baking in layers, and putting them together with frosting, alternating the layers. Mrs. Frank Woods Robinson, Kenton.

For the Modern Kitchen

A yolks-only chocolate butter cake from a contributor in Kenton, Ohio, with a suggestion for pairing it with a white cake made from the leftover whites. No oven temperature, pan size or baking time is given, as was normal in 1877.

A Little History

Buckeye Cookery and Practical Housekeeping (1877) was assembled from recipes signed by named contributors in named towns -- here Kenton, in northwestern Ohio -- which is why the book reads as a snapshot of what real Midwestern households were baking rather than what a single author thought they should. Chocolate as a cake flavoring was still comparatively new in American home baking; for most of the century chocolate was something you drank, and the shift to baking depended on cheap, reliably ground unsweetened cake chocolate, of which Baker's of Dorchester, Massachusetts, was the brand common enough to be used as a generic name in recipes. The instruction to bake a companion white cake from the leftover whites belongs to the same thrift that produced the era's gold-and-silver cakes: an egg separated for one purpose left half an egg needing a use, and a good cookbook told you what it was.

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