Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Indian Pancakes

One pint Indian meal, one tea-spoon salt, small tea-spoon soda ; pour on boiling water until a little thinner than mush; let stand until cool, add the yolks of four eggs, half a cup of flour in which is mixed two tea-spoons cream tartar; stir in as much sweet milk or water as will make the batter suitable to bake; beat the whites well, and add just before baking. - Mrs. W. W. Woods.

For the Modern Kitchen

A scalded-cornmeal griddle cake leavened with the two halves of homemade baking powder. The scald is what makes it work: the meal has to soften and cool before the eggs go in.

A Little History

Buckeye Cookery and Practical Housekeeping (Minneapolis, 1877 and many later printings) was a compiled community book, and this recipe carries its contributor's name as most of them do — a form of authority in a book with no single author. "Indian meal" was standard American usage for maize meal from the colonial period onward, distinguishing it from "meal" or "flour" meaning wheat, and it survives in Indian pudding. The scalding technique, pouring boiling water over the meal and letting it swell, is older than chemical leavening and appears throughout the corn-bread tradition; it gelatinizes the starch so the coarse meal does not stay gritty. The paired soda and cream of tartar show a household mixing its own baking powder, at a time when commercial brands had been on the market since the late 1850s and 1860s.

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