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Molasses Cake
One cup each of butter, sugar, sour milk and molasses, five cups Hour, two eggs, one table-spoon soda, one of ginger. - Mrs. A. J. Palmes.
For creams and custards eggs should never be beaten in tin, but always in stone or earthen ware, as there is some chemical influence about tin which prevents their attaining that creamy lightness so desirable. Beat quickly and sharply right through the eggs, beating whites and yolks separately. When gelatine is used for creams, it is better to soak it for an hour in a little cold water or milk, set in a warm place; (it is convenient to place in a bowl set in the top of the boiling tea-kettle to dissolve;) when dissolved, pour into the hot custard just after removing from the stove. For custards the common rule is four eggs, one cup sugar, and one small half tea-spoon salt to each quart of milk. Bake in a baking-dish until firm in the center, taking care that the heat is moderate or the custard will turn in part to whey. The delicacy of the custard depends on its being baked slowly. It is much nicer to strain the yolks, after they are beaten, through a small wire strainer kept for this purpose by every good housekeeper. For boiled custards or floats the yolks alone may be used, or for economy's sake the entire eggs. Always place the milk to boil in a custard-kettle (made of iron with another iron kettle inside, the latter lined with tin), or, in a pan or pail set within a kettle of boiling water; when the milk reaches the boiling point, which is shown by a slight foam rising on top, add the sugar, which cools it so that the eggs will not curdle when added. Or, another convenient way is to mix the beaten and strained yolks with the sugar in a bowl, then add gradually several spoons of the boiling milk, until the eggs and sugar are (102) heated through, when they may be slowly stirred into the boiling milk. Let remain a few moments, stirring constantly until it thickens a little, but not long enough to curdle, then either set the pail immediately in cold water or turn out into a cold dish, as it curdles if allowed to remain in a hot basin; add flavoring extracts after removing from the stove. Peach leaves or vanilla beans give a fine flavor, but must be boiled in the milk and then taken out before the other ingredients are added. Boiled custards are very difficult to make, and must have the closest attention until they are finished. The custards may be prepared as above, mixing the milk, eggs and sugar, and then placing in pan to steam instead of boiling.
In making charlotte-russe it is not necessary to add gelatine. The filling may be made of well-whipped cream, flavored and sweetened, using a "whip-churn" or the "Dover Egg-beater" to do the whipping. Fill the mold (which should be first wet with cold water for charlotte-russe and blanc mange, and all creams) and set on ice to harden. If preferred, it may be made up in several small molds, one for each person. In the use of spices it is well to remember that allspice and cloves are used with meats, and nutmegs and cinnamon in combination with sugar. The white part of lemon rind is exceedingly bitter, and the outer peel only should be used for grating. A better way is to rub the rind off with hard lumps of sugar. The sugar thus saturated with the oil of the lemon is called "zest," and is used, pounded fine, for creams, etc.
A bare list of proportions in the older style, with no method, pan or oven given. Everything you need to fill in is below.
- The word after "five cups"The ingredient printed as "Hour" is flour. Five cups is roughly 1 lb 6 oz by weight if you prefer to scale it.
- Sour milkUse buttermilk, cup for cup. Its acid is what activates the soda; sweet milk will leave the cake flat and soapy-tasting. Whole milk soured with a tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice also works.
- The soda is highA full tablespoon of soda for five cups of flour is more than modern palates accept, even with sour milk and molasses to neutralise it. Two teaspoons is closer to current practice; more than that gives a dark, bitter, faintly metallic crumb.
- MolassesThe recipe does not specify a grade. A mild cane molasses suits it better than blackstrap, which is far more bitter and will dominate a cake using a full cup.
- Method, since none is givenCream the butter and sugar, beat in the eggs, then add molasses and sour milk alternately with the flour sifted with the soda and ginger. Mix only until combined; molasses batters toughen quickly.
- OvenNothing is specified. Bake at 350F. Molasses browns fast, so watch the edges rather than the top for doneness.
- Pan and timeThe batter is generous: it fills a 9x13 sheet pan (about 40 to 45 minutes) or two 9x5 loaf tins (about 50 minutes). A skewer in the centre should come out clean.
- SpiceA tablespoon of ginger is the whole flavour here. Ground ginger loses its heat in the jar within a year, so use a fresh tin or the cake will taste only of molasses.
- KeepingLike most molasses cakes it improves on the second day, once the crumb has taken up moisture from the syrup. Wrap it well rather than refrigerating.
What Buckeye Cookery gives here is a soft, cake-style gingerbread of the sort that filled American home ovens once cheap cane molasses and baking soda were both in every pantry. Commercial baking powder was on the market by 1877, but the older pairing of soda with an acid liquid, here sour milk and molasses together, was still a common means of raising a cake, and it explains the heavy hand with soda in recipes of this period. Molasses also did duty as a sweetener where refined sugar was dear, which is why so many nineteenth-century cakes are dark. The attribution to Mrs. A. J. Palmes is typical of the book, which was compiled in Minneapolis in 1877 from contributed recipes, a number of which carry the name of the woman who vouched for them.