Cassell's New Dictionary of Cookery

From Aberdeen Crullas to Zwiebach — the vast Cassell's dictionary with a recipe for everything, each priced to the penny ('Probable cost, 2s.'), plus the whole science of the 1912 kitchen.

HomeThe Principles of Cookery › Bread Without Yeast

Bread Without Yeast

To every half-quartern of flour add one tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Mix all together; then to the water, sufficient to make a dough, add half a tea-spoonful of muriatic acid. Set into the oven at once. This makes delicious and wholesome bread. Some use tartaric acid; in which case the bread will contain tartrate of soda, which, although not poisonous, is medicinal, being slightly purgative. On the other hand, muriatic acid neutralises soda just as well as tartaric acid, and the resulting compound is only common salt.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a chemically leavened bread from the decades when bakers were still arguing about how to raise a loaf without brewer's yeast. The acid it calls for is the reason it cannot be made.

A Little History

Chemical leavening was a nineteenth-century preoccupation. Yeast was unreliable, sourdough was slow, and a run of chemists and physicians proposed acid-plus-alkali systems that would raise a loaf on demand — most famously the cream of tartar and bicarbonate pairings that became commercial baking powder, but also, in print if less often in practice, mineral acids. The argument reproduced here is a period one: soda alone leaves a soapy, yellowish crumb, so something must be added to consume it, and the writer prefers hydrochloric acid precisely because the residue is nothing but table salt, whereas tartaric acid leaves a tartrate salt with a laxative reputation. The logic is sound; what it ignores is the purity of the acid, which in an era before food-grade standards was whatever the local druggist had on the shelf. It is best read as an explanation of leavening chemistry rather than as a formula.

← Bread, Wheat and RiceBreakfast Biscuits →