Cassell's New Dictionary of Cookery

From Aberdeen Crullas to Zwiebach — the vast Cassell's dictionary with a recipe for everything, each priced to the penny ('Probable cost, 2s.'), plus the whole science of the 1912 kitchen.

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Imperial Gingerbread

Take twelve ounces of dried flour, and blend with it six ounces of butter. Make into a paste with a pint of cream and six ounces of treacle stirred together by degrees before being added to the flour; the cream is liable to get turned if this is not carefully done. Strew in an ounce of caraway-seeds, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half an ounce of powdered ginger. The paste should be stiff. When cut into shapes, stick candied orange or lemon peel on the top, and bake on a tin plate, well buttered. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity. (See also GINGER-BREAD, IMPERIAL.)

For the Modern Kitchen

A rolled and cut gingerbread biscuit rather than a cake, rich with cream and treacle. The Victorian measurements need a little interpretation, particularly the liquid.

A Little History

Gingerbread in nineteenth-century Britain covered everything from hard fairground snaps stamped with figures to soft treacle loaves, and "imperial" was one of a family of grandiose qualifiers — royal, superior, rich — that publishers used to distinguish one formula from the next in books that might carry a dozen. What marks this version is the cream, an expensive enrichment that pushes the mixture toward a short, biscuit-like paste rather than the plain flour-and-treacle dough of a commercial gingerbread. Caraway alongside ginger is thoroughly of its period: the two seeds shared space in English cake and biscuit baking well into the Victorian era before caraway fell out of favour. The candied orange or lemon peel pressed on top is a remnant of the decorated gingerbreads sold at fairs, where gilding, stamping and applied sweetmeats were part of the trade. Cassell's, published in parts from the 1870s, worked as a reference book more than a teaching one — hence the terse cross-reference at the end to another entry filed under a different heading, and the probable cost given for a mistress checking her cook's accounts.

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