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Mock Turtle Soup

This is a staple soup of English life, to be met with in most of the dining-rooms and hotels, not only in London, but almost everywhere in Great Britain. As its name implies, it is an imitation of the turtle soup introduced to us by our navigators over a century ago. The essential point in mock turtle must, therefore, be the "lumpy delight" furnished by calf's head; and the choice of the head should be a matter of some importance. It should be large, firm, and fat, full of brain, with good tongue and cheeks. As the preparation of this soup is a labour of love, and will occupy time, our recipe will run in the order of arrangement. First, clean and blanch a calf's head, with the skin on. Take out the brains, and put the head into eight or nine quarts of spring water. Bring it gently to a boil, skim frequently, and keep it simmering a couple of hours, by which time it should be sufficiently done to remove the bones easily. Second, return the bones to the pot, and add three pounds of fillet of veal, three pounds of leg of beef, cut into pieces an inch and a half square, three pounds of delicate pickled pork, also cut into small pieces, three or four slices of good sound old ham for flavouring, four large onions, sliced, three heads of celery, a large bunch of savory herbs, parsley, a few leaves of green basil, lemon thyme, marjoram, two bay-leaves, and stew gently, with good careful skimming, three full hours, adding stock to keep up the required quantity of soup. Third, while the stock is boiling, cut into nice sizable pieces the skin from the head and the fat that adheres to it, and cut the tongue into cubes of an inch square, the fleshy parts of the head into diamonds, dice, or any other shape. Make brain balls, or any other forcemeat, or egg balls. Fourth, when the stock has been sufficiently boiled, strain it from the bones, etc. (retaining only rich bits of meat), into a large clean stewpan; add the skin, tongue, etc., and a seasoning of cayenne and mace, Worcester sauce, mushroom ketchup, or any other seasoning that may be desirable. Thicken with four ounces of butter, kneaded in as much brown flour, and simmer gently for an hour, if the calf's head, etc., require it; but twenty minutes before serving, add half a pint of sherry, the brain or other balls, and button mushrooms (two or three ounces). Fifth, the best mode is to place the pieces of head, etc., at the bottom of the tureen, and strain the soup through a tamis-cloth; but if due care has been taken in the second stage of the preparation, and the skimming has been constant and careful, this need not be resorted to. Sixth, serve with lemon on a plate, as some persons like the soup a little acid. (For half a calf's head take half the ingredients.) This recipe is for four quarts. (See also CALF'S HEAD, MOCK TURTLL SOUP OF; and TURTLE SOUP, MOCK.)