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Sturgeon, Choosing Of

The flesh of this fish is partly white, with a few blue veins, the grain even. the skin tender, good-coloured, and soft. All the veins and gristles should be blue; for when they are brown and yellow, and the skin harsh, tough, and dry, the fish is not good. It has a pleasant smell when in perfection, but a very disagreeable one when bad. It should also cut firm, without crumbling. The females are as full of roe as a carp.