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Sugar Boiling

There are several degrees in boiling sugar from clarified syrup to caramel. The process requires not only care but an experience which can, perhaps, only be expected from a confectioner. Recipes are given for boiling sugar to the first, second, third, fourth, and fifth degrees. These are the principal gradations, and they are further divided by professional persons. When great nicety is required, the condition of the sugar can be best ascertained by a saccharometer, which is an instrument constructed for the purpose of determining the exact condition of preparations of this nature. The finest sugar only should be used in confectionery. It is really the most economical, as common sugar wastes much more when it is being clarified. Sugar, to Clarify.--Break the sugar into large lumps, and put it into a delicately-clean preserving-pan. Allow a pint of water to each pound if it is for syrup; if for candying less than half that quantity will be sufficient. The white of one egg will also be required for twelve pounds of sugar if it is refined; for six pounds if it is coarse. Beat the white of egg lightly; stir it into the water, and pour the mixture upon the sugar. Let it stand until dissolved; then stir it well, and put it upon a gentle fire. Do not disturb it after the scum begins to form. Let it boil for five minutes; take it from the fire, let it stand for two minutes, and carefully remove all the scum. Set it on the fire again, and when it is about to boil up throw in a little cold water, which has been reserved for the purpose from the quantity originally measured. Boil till the scum forms again; draw it from the fire, let it settle, then skim it as before, and repeat this operation till the syrup is quite clear. If it is not properly cleared it will rise over the pan when it is boiled to a height. Strain the syrup through muslin, and it will be fit for use or for further boiling. To prevent waste, the scum should be laid on a sieve, and any syrup that runs from it should be boiled up again. First Degree, named Candied Sugar.--Take the sugar clarified as above, and put it again on the fire. Let it boil till smooth. Dip the hand for a moment in cold water to keep it from being burnt; take from the skimmer a drop of the syrup, press it quickly, draw it apart, and if it forms a brittle thread it has attained the first degree.

Second Degree, named Souffle, or Blown Sugar.--Boil the candied sugar still longer. Dip in the skimmer, shake off the sugar, and blow strongly through the holes of the skimmer. When the sugar forms into bubbles it has attained the second degree.

Third Degree, named Feathered Sugar.--Boil the blown sugar still longer. Dip the skimmer again in the pan, shake it, then give it a quick toss. If the sugar flies off like down or feathers it has attained the third degree. Fourth Degree, named Crackling Sugar.--Boil the feathered sugar a short time longer. Dip a stick in the sugar, and plunge it instantly into cold water. If the sugar that hangs to the stick becomes instantly hard the sugar has attained the fourth degree. In making this experiment the cook must be careful that the water in which she tries the sugar is perfectly cold. If it is not she may be misled. If the sugar is intended for barley-sugar, a little grated lemon or essence of lemon should now be added, and the sugar should be poured upon a broad dish; and when the edges begin to harden it should be divided into strips and twisted. If there is any fear that the sugar will grain or return again to powder a little lemon-juice may be added. Fifth Degree, named Caramel.--Boil the sugar until when a little is put into cold water it hardens instantly and snaps like glass. Squeeze in a little lemon-juice; let the sugar remain one minute longer on the fire, then, if it is wanted for sugar spinning, set the pan in another of cold water, and the caramel will be ready for use. Care should be taken that the fire is not very fierce when the sugar is being boiled, for if it flames up at the sides of the pan it may burn and spoil the sugar. Spun sugar is a pretty ornament for sweetmeats, and may be made of sugar prepared as follows. Moulds of a suitable size and form should be oiled with almond oil, and then with a fork the sugar should be spread over them in fine threads of chain or network. These moulds will look very pretty if placed upon an iced cake, and they can be used several times if they are carefully handled. One way of performing this really difficult operation is to tie two forks together with the prongs outwards, dip them lightly in the sugar, take them out, and shake them backwards and forwards over the oiled moulds or whatever else is to be covered. The manufacture of spun sugar belongs rather to the skill of the confectioner, however, than to that of the cook.