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VEAL CUTLETS (a la Maintenon or en Papillotes)

This mode of dressing cutlets is said to have been invented by Madame de Maintenon, Louis XIV's favourite, to tempt the failing appetite of the king when he was advanced in age. Take some cutlets from the best end of the neck of veal. Saw off the chine-bone, trim away the skin and gristle, shorten the rib-bones, and pare away the meat from the tip of the bones. Fry the cutlets in butter or lard till they are lightly browned on both sides. Take them up, drain them, and put them aside. Put a small bunch of sweet herbs into a stewpan with a little minced shallot a roll of thin lemon-rind, and a slice of fat bacon cut into dice. Pour upon these ingredients a pint of strong veal stock, or veal stock with a little gelatine dissolved in it. Add the cutlets, salt and pepper as required, cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Take up the cutlets, and set them aside to cool; strain the liquor, and set that aside also. It ought to from a stiff jelly when cold. When the cutlets are wanted, take as many sheets of stiff white paper as there are cutlets. Cut away the corners to give them something of the shape of a heart, but leave them sufficiently large to enfold the cutlets. Oil the paper on both sides. Place a cutlet on each paper, spread a little of the sauce upon it, then fold it in the paper, and twist the edges securely, so that the sauce cannot escape. Broil the cutlets thus enclosed in paper over a gentle fire, or, if preferred, place them in a brisk oven till they are heated thoroughly, and the envelopes are lightly browned. Dish them in the papers with fried parsley as a garnish. Time to fry the cutlets, about a quarter of an hour. To broil them, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, from 1s. to 1s. 2d.