Cassell's New Dictionary of Cookery

From Aberdeen Crullas to Zwiebach — the vast Cassell's dictionary with a recipe for everything, each priced to the penny ('Probable cost, 2s.'), plus the whole science of the 1912 kitchen.

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Wines, Wholesomeness Of

Wines may be resolved into two great divisions; into those which are coloured, and commonly called red wines, and those which have a yellow tinge, more or less deep, termed white wines. This colouring matter is not derived from the juice, but from the husk of the grapes. If, therefore, the fermentation be not permitted to take place in contact with the husks, a colourless wine is in all cases produced. This colouring matter is highly astringent, and consequently the red wines differ from the white in their effects upon the stomach; and yet it is difficult to explain the well-known extent of this operation by the presence of so small a proportion of active matter. It must, however, be remembered that irritable stomachs are frequently impatient of astringent matter. Many persons are incapable of drinking port wine, in consequence of the heartburn it occasions; while others, on the contrary, appear to derive advantage from the tonic influence of its astringency. This is a circumstance of idiosyncrasy which no theory can explain. A popular writer remarks, "When my stomach is not in good temper, it generally desires to have red wine; but when in best health nothing affronts it more than to put port into it; and one of the first symptoms of its coming into adjustment is a wish for white wine. Every physician is practically aware of the caprice which the stomach displays in its morbid conditions; but as a general rule it may be stated that white deserves a preference over red wines, because the latter being pressed and subjected to a stronger fermentation to extract the colouring principle from the husk are necessarily more loaded with extractive and astringent matter; and as this remains in the stomach after the liquid portion of the wine is absorbed, it will be liable to occasion disturbance." It is a fact not easily explained that the stomach is frequently outraged by a wine to which it has not been accustomed; and it is equally true that a mixture of different wines is a common source of indigestion. The custom of mixing wine with water has its advantages as well as its evils. By dilution it frequently proves too little stimulant to the stomach, and runs into a state of acescency. An invalid is also thus liable to deceive himself by taking more wine than may be consistent with his welfare. Much, however, depends upon the quality of the wine taken; the lighter wines cannot require dilution, while port is certainly rendered less injurious by the admixture, although the flavour is to a large extent destroyed.

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