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Cabbage a la Lilloise
Wash and drain a large cabbage, and, after removing the stalk, cut it into pieces about the size of a walnut. Melt 2 ounces of butter in a saucepan, and fry in it for a minute or two a small teaspoonful of finely chopped onion. Add the cabbage, with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Cook it over a slow fire, and turn it frequently to prevent burning. Place on a hot dish and serve. Time to prepare, fifteen minutes.
A plain butter-and-onion braise that stands or falls on heat control: the cabbage should sweat and colour lightly, never scorch.
- The hinge: low heat, coveredThe hinge: low heat -- "A slow fire" means the lowest steady burner setting. The recipe says nothing about a lid, only to turn the cabbage frequently; covering the pan will help it release its own moisture, but that is a modern adjustment. Uncovered on medium heat it will brown and dry out before the core softens.
- Timing is optimisticFifteen minutes covers the prep and gives crisp-tender cabbage at best. For a softer texture, allow 30 to 40 minutes, stirring every five.
- Cut size"Pieces about the size of a walnut" means roughly 1-inch squares, not shreds. Quarter the head, core it, then cut across the leaves so the pieces hold their shape.
- Butter quantity2 ounces is 4 tablespoons (about 55 g) for one large head, roughly 2 lb trimmed. That is right for the method; less and the cabbage sticks.
- NutmegGrate it fresh and use no more than a scant quarter teaspoon. Pre-ground nutmeg is flat and turns dusty against the butter.
- StickingIf the pan dries before the cabbage is tender, add two tablespoons of water or stock rather than more butter, and keep the lid on.
- YieldA large head serves four to six as a side dish. It reheats well in a covered pan.