Clam Fritters (Chopped Clams)

A working note rather than a full formula: the clams are seasoned and folded into a fritter batter that the book assumes you already have in front of you. Everything hinges on chopping the clams fine and frying briefly.

• The batter is not specified hereNo proportions are given in this entry, so use a standard drop-fritter batter: roughly 1 cup flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, a pinch of salt, 1 egg and about 1/2 cup milk, thick enough to hold on a spoon. A cup of chopped clams to that quantity is a reasonable ratio, though the book gives no guide to quantity or yield.
• "Black beard"The dark skin of the siphon (and, in a hard clam, the soft dark belly). Trimming it with scissors is still worth doing; it removes grit and the strongest flavour. The recipe does not say which clam is meant.
• Chop fine, and drainClams give up a surprising amount of liquor. Drain the chopped meat before it goes into the batter and hold the liquor back, or the batter loosens and the fritters spread and absorb fat.
• Fat temperatureThe book says only "hot fat"; in modern terms aim for about 365-375F. Below that the batter soaks; much above it and the outside colours before the centre sets. Fry in small batches so the temperature does not crash.
• Cooking timeTwo to three minutes total, turning once, should be enough. Chopped raw clams need only brief cooking, and longer frying makes the pieces rubbery.
• The griddle versionTreated as clam pancakes rather than fritters. The recipe uses the same batter and simply says to turn as soon as the underside is browned, adding a little butter if needed; a moderate griddle heat and roughly two minutes a side suits.
• SeasoningSalt lightly; clams are salty on their own, and the recipe also calls for pepper and a few drops of lemon. Serve with more lemon or with tartar sauce.