Crullers

A plain twisted cruller of the type once made in quantity for a cold pantry. The dough is soft and sticky, so the two things to control are flour and fat temperature.

• Fat temperature, not smoke"Smoking-hot" is a signal that the fat is at or past its limit; modern shortening and oil scorch the outside before the centre sets. Hold the fat at 365-375F and check it with a thermometer between batches.
• Jagging-ironA pastry jagger, the small toothed or fluted wheel once used for pie edges and cookies. A pizza wheel or a sharp knife cuts the slits just as well.
• "More flour to make a soft dough"The stated 2 cupfuls will give a batter, not a dough. Expect to work in another 1-1/2 to 2 cups; stop while the dough is still tacky, since a stiff cruller fries hard and dry.
• Chill before rollingThe recipe does not say to, but a soft, butter-and-milk dough handles far better after 30-60 minutes in the refrigerator. It rolls thinner and the braided strips keep their shape in the fat.
• Cutting and braidingRoll about 1/4 inch thick and cut in squares as directed, make two or three lengthwise slits leaving both ends joined, then pass one strip over another. The slits open in the fat, which is the point of the shape.
• Frying and drainingFry two or three at a time so the fat does not drop below temperature, about 1 to 1-1/2 minutes a side until deep gold. Drain on a rack rather than flat paper so the underside does not steam.
• Sugar1-1/2 cupfuls is sweet by current taste and browns fast at frying heat. A cup is enough if you intend to roll the finished crullers in cinnamon sugar.
• YieldAbout two dozen, depending on how large you cut them. They are best the day they are made.