Mushroom Melon

A savoury rice mould steamed in the oven and turned out whole, named for its shape rather than any melon in the ingredients. The success of it rests entirely on the unmoulding.

• The hinge: the liningThe tomato puree lining is what gives the finished mould its skin and colour, so it must be thick — a reduced puree that holds its shape on a spoon, not passata. Butter the mould well first or the puree will grip and tear when you invert it.
• Oven temperatureA "hot oven" in this period is generally reckoned somewhere around 400-450F. Set at 400F; the water bath keeps the mould itself well below that.
• Water bathStand the mould in a roasting pan and pour in boiling water to come halfway up the sides. Half an hour is right for a quart-and-a-half mould; the centre should be set and firm to a light press.
• QuantitiesA quart of cooked rice is about 4 cups, from roughly 1 1/3 cups raw. A pint of minced cooked mushrooms is around 8 oz by weight, from about 1 lb fresh — cook them down first and drain well, or the mould will weep.
• Beaten to pulpThe rice is meant to be mashed to a paste so it binds. A wooden spoon and some patience works; a food processor in short pulses is faster, but stop before it turns gluey.
• The egg whitesBeat them to soft peaks and fold in last, after the rice has cooled to lukewarm. Added to hot rice they simply cook and lose their lightening effect.
• UnmouldingLet it rest 5–10 minutes out of the water before inverting, and run a thin knife around the rim. Warm the serving dish, as the original says — cold china chills the mould instantly.
• YieldServes six as a side or four as a light main. Sauté extra mushrooms in butter for the garnish and spoon them around the base.