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Parsley Butter
Rub 3 tablespoonfuls of butter to a cream. Beat in slowly half a tablespoonful of strained lemon juice and a tablespoonful of finely minced parsley; season with white pepper. Beat until creamy, and put on ice and serve with meats. Or double the amount of lemon juice, and serve hot with boiled or broiled fish.
A compound butter of the classic kind, given here in a shellfish chapter because it was the standard finish for grilled or boiled fish. The proportions are sound as written; only the handling needs comment.
- Butter temperature"Rub to a cream" means soft enough to work smooth with a spoon or spatula, around 65F, but not melted. If it goes oily the lemon juice will not incorporate and the butter will separate when it warms.
- Adding the lemonAdd the juice a few drops at a time, beating between additions, exactly as the original says; poured in at once it will bead out. The recipe itself doubles the juice for the fish version, so the smaller quantity is well within what the butter will carry.
- YieldAbout 3 tablespoons, enough to dress four servings of fish or four steaks. It scales up without change.
- White pepperPresumably chosen so no dark flecks show in the pale butter; its flavour differs from black, being less aromatic and slightly musty. The recipe gives no quantity, so season to taste.
- ParsleyMince it fine and dry it well in a towel first. Wet parsley waters the butter and makes it weep on the plate.
- "Put on ice"Simply chill it. Roll the butter in parchment into a cylinder and refrigerate at least an hour, then cut coins to lay on hot meat.
- The hot versionWith the doubled lemon juice this is meant to be warmed only to the point of melting and spooned over the fish immediately. Held over heat it will break; if it does, whisk in a teaspoon of cold butter off the fire.
- KeepingTwo or three days refrigerated, or freeze the roll for a month. Fresh parsley loses its colour and smell well before the butter goes off.